This Country Smells

One of the "3rd World" aspects about Dubai is that occasionally it smells like sh*t. Literally.

When we first moved into the house - some of the bathrooms had a rank odor emanating from the toilets. We put it down to having air in the pipes. So, we flushed and ran some water down the pipes to clear out the smell. And that helps - usually. But sometimes - for some reason - the odors are able to come up into the house. It's especially noticeable if you leave the bathroom door closed for a while and then go in and "whew" - it's a bit ripe in there.

There are times, when walking down the street that you "catch a whiff". It can be in the poshest shopping mall. It can be getting out of the car in our driveway. I wrinkled my nose walking into Lyra's school the other day. I don't know why, but sometimes Dubai smells like poo.

All over the city, sewage is stored in huge tanks that are scattered around neighborhoods. In our neighborhood, the closest one is about 2 miles down the road. If the wind is right - oooh baby. I cannot imagine living in the villas that are right next to that lot. I've taken a walk down that way - and you can smell it coming. Tanker trucks drive by daily to take the sewage to the treatment plant that is about 10 miles from our place.

Every day, 10,000 tankers head to the same sewage plant. And as the city has grown and as the neighborhoods have been built and the population has sored, the number of tankers queuing up outside the sewage plant has grown. Every day, there are hundreds of trucks stretched in both directions waiting to deliver their load of raw sewage. Truckers can be in line for 18 hours awaiting their turn.

So, what have these truckers started doing? They're dumping their sewage into the storm drains. Yep. Tons and tons of raw sewage is being dumped into the storm drains to the point that they've had to close the beaches here. Imagine the horror of tourists as they find out that their "vacation in paradise" has become a paddle in the local toilet. A scene from Caddyshack comes to mind.

The municipality has started to crack down hard on the drivers and their companies. 50,000 Dhs fines have been levied. And they've started to weld shut the manhole covers. And they're keeping a close eye to catch all violators. So, does this stop them? Of course not. Now there are reports that truckers are opening their drain valves as they drive along the roads - leaving sewage strewn across streets. Or they're heading out into the desert and dumping in the sand.

I'm sure this dumping has been going on for months or years. It's just that recently they had to close beaches and of course now the public knows what is going on. It's a big problem - and I have no idea when there's another sewage treatment plant planned. In the meantime, the queues just keep getting bigger and bigger - and crafty truck drivers are going to try and find a way to avoid them.

I Vote to Move the Election Forward

I'm obsessed. I can't seem to stay focused on anything but the election. First thing I do in the morning is check the US headlines. Then, when I get home, I log in to view the clips and videos from the day.

Every new poll, every new editorial, every new "outrage" at who did what to whom - these are my newfound obsession.

In the middle of an email I think, "I should go check the news".
In the middle of a meeting I check my Blackberry to see if there are any new headlines.
I wake up early to go check on the status of the debates.
I go to bed late after watching too many news clips.

I'm missing NPR on my nightly drive home.
I'm missing Frontline analysis.

Thank god (or as they say here "Thanks god" - don't ask me why it's just is how they say it) for the internet - for the online versions of newspapers and TV.

But - I don't miss the non-stop ads, TV pundits, and telephone canvassing. I don't miss the fear mongering played up by the local news programs. Believe me, I've seen the ads. I've seen the pundits. I just don't have to be bombarded with them.

Can we hold the election tomorrow please?

Hey, Sarah Palin

Who would Jesus incite to violence? Huh?

A little reminder in case you'd forgotten. Christian means "Christ-follower".

The apostle Paul in writing to Titus said (Titus 1:16) "They claim to know God, but by their actions they deny him. They are detestable, disobedient and unfit for doing anything good."

I heard the best quote from Sarah Vowell - "She's (Sarah Palin) like a beauty pageant contestant, but without the desire for World Peace."

Economic Crisis

Well, things here don't seem to have hit the same levels of panic as in the rest of the world. Although there have been huge drops in the Dubai Financial stock exchange, I think most of the folks here don't have their wealth tied into stocks the same as in the US.

Nervousness here is more tied into the real estate market. Values here have been going up by 20% to 50% per year for several years now. Recent reportings have about 140,000 new properties coming onto the market in the next 18 monts. I'll repeat one hundred and forty THOUSAND new properties. That alone would make folks think there might be a softening in prices (or perhaps bursting of a bubble). The credit crunch has also hit here, too. So, getting loans to buy the new properties has started to be a concern. But really that's only a concern for the small-time buyers. Big buyers here are so flush with cash that there's very little need for loans. Still though, the government here injected US$18 billion to help free up the credit market.

A second concern would be a bottoming out on the price of oil if there was a depression. For sure the economies here are driven by oil prices. The boom of the past several years has been fueled by the high prices the rest of the world is paying for energy. I've seen estimates of something like US$3B surplus cash per day is generated in this region when oil is at US$90/barrel. So, if prices drop, then the surplus starts to dry up - and that would certainly slow things down.

But the reserves of cash here are pretty vast. And people/governments are looking for ways to invest that cash and make returns. For oil rich nations, Dubai is an attractive investment destination. It's a muslim country that actually welcomes them (as opposed to the "welcome" they get in the US as evidenced in the recent mob-scenes at McCain rallys).

Certainly a financial crash around the world will have its impact here. There'd be no way to avoid it. How much certainly remains to be seen. But it does seem that this region is better positioned to recover.

Rolls Royce's are Ugly

I could have lived my whole life in Milwaukee and never seen a real live Rolls Royce. Even in London, I think I only saw one or two. And in Dubai, home of extravagance galore, they aren't that common. And there's a reason for that - they're butt ugly.

I saw one on my commute home the other day. I glanced in my rear view mirror. Even though it was night and I could only see the silhouette I said to myself, "What's that?!!?" My suspicion was that it was a Rolls. I was able to confirm it when it lumbered past me. Man - those things are heavy! Are they using 1/4" steel for the body? Holy cow, you can hear the ping-ping-ping of the gas pump as it cruises pass. A Sherman Tank looks sprightly and zippy compared to these behemoths.

Who would buy these ugly things? Unless you live in fear of being shot at, there's no reason. Get a Bentley if you need ostentation.

Everyone's Back

And the traffic is horrible.

Summer traffic was light while a large set of the population left to escape the heat (us included). Plus, the traffic for school runs stopped in mid-June. Then, when we all came back from summer, Ramadan started and businesses reduced their hours. And with Eid, tons of folks went on vacation.

All of the above has led to several months of smooth sailing for me as I commute to and from work. I've appreciated this most especially in the evening. In heavy traffic, it can take me 40 minutes just to get from my parking structure to the first intersection. I did finally bite the bullet and start using the toll-bridge. This road is usually free flowing and I've found I can reduce my commute by at least 20 if not 30 minutes. For 4Dhs (just over US$1) it's worth it.

So now, my biggest back up is as I approach the last intersection - a left turn at the light into Mirdif. Now that traffic has resumed, I'm backed up for nearly 1 mile waiting my turn. Of course there are lots of folks who feel that waiting doesn't apply to them. They will stay in the "go straight" lane and then cut in to turn just before the intersection. Always slows every else down.

I'm struggling to get used to it. Still a bit surprised to see the traffic mass outside my parking structure as I leave for home. I'm hoping, since this is the first week, that things will still settle a bit. I can appreciate the folks who long for the "old Dubai" before traffic became such a horrible mess.

Nepal's New Kumari

Nepal's Maoists have selected a new living goddess (Kumari). She is a 6-year old girl who, according to tradition, the goddess Durga inhabits her body until puberty. In order to be selected, she had to meet several criteria - some of which inlcude:

• A neck like a conch shell
• A body like a banyan tree
• Eyelashes like a cow
• Thighs like a deer
• Chest like a lion
• Voice soft and clear as a duck's

The most recent Kumari was dishonored by visiting the US. This visit was deemed to have "tainted her purity". Luckily, she was able to undergo a cleansing ceremony to restore her goddess state. But now that she's 11, Durga has vacated her body. To symobolize her return to mere human status, she was married in a ritual to a piece of fruit.

Is Tomorrow A Holiday?

Well, we'll have to wait until the "Moon Sighting Committee" in Saudi Arabia looks at the shape of the crescent moon. Don't ask me how they can tell the difference, but if it is a new crescent versus the last day of the waning crescent - then Ramadan is over and tomorrow is a holiday.

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According to this website http://moonsighting.com/ they are already saying that today it is a New Moon (see left). I've been told that I should check the Gulf News website this evening to be sure. So, certainly by this evening we'll know if tomorrow is a holiday. But signs are showing positively that starting tomorrow, we'll have 2 days off for Eid al Fitr (or "The Festival to Break the Fast"). I've already decided that if we have Tuesday and Wednesday off, then I'll take off on Thursday to make it a 5-day weekend.

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We know from last year, that if tomorrow is Eid al Fitr we will have no doubt by the praying that is broadcast from the mosques. For over an hour, the muezzin will send out their prayers of thanksgiving and jubilation. They will start at sunrise - which is somewhere around 5am these days. And then the days of feasting, family gatherings, giving presents and giving thanks will begin for Muslim families who will celebrate the blessings they have been given and give thanks that they had the strength to fast for the month of Ramadan.

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Happy Eid

What the F**K

Last night, a work collegue was killed as he walked from our office to his hotel. He was struck by falling debris from a construction site. A crane boom swung out over the public sidewalk and dropped a load of wooden beams from a height of nearly 50 stories. He was killed instantly.

It's hard to get over the shock. He took the same route that I take nearly every day to go and get my lunch. He was visiting here from one of our regional offices for some meetings. I just saw him - he swung through the corridor to say goodnight to a few people before heading out. Just 1 minute -no- 10 seconds slower or faster and he would have been fine. All those philosophical thoughts keep swimming through my head: When it's time - it's time; You never know; A reminder about what's really important.

His poor wife, his poor family. Can you imagine the total shock and horror she was feeling as she flew here from Bahrain last night. A worst nightmare come true.

Mostly I'm angry, now that I've had a few hours to process the news. Sometimes Dubai is such a 3rd World Country. Especially when it comes to valuing human life and dignity. Believe me - there is none. Because Shuaib's death is just one of hundreds (maybe thousands) that happens on construction sites every year here. Can you imagine having 2 pedestrians (there was also someone else - a stranger - walking next to him) killed by falling debris from a construction site and not having that be significant news? But here - there's nothing. Can you imagine a crane swinging its boom carrying a heavy load across a public sidewalk in the US? I can tell you that I have walked under cranes myself as they've swung over my path - and shuddered doing it. Can you imagine that if someone were killed on a construction site after displaying that much disregard for safety - that within a couple of hours they'd be back at work? Heaven forbid something stop the building of their precious towers.

See - to implement safety standards here - they'd have to care. They'd have to care that people are killed, maimed, and injured by the thousands on the construction sites in this city. They'd have to care that someone's family will be devastated by this loss. They'd have to care about the value of a person life and that it's worth protecting. They'd have to care - and they don't.

His wife will benefit from the fact that this tragedy happened while he was on company business. Because now Johnson Controls legal department will get involved and hopefully get a good settlement from the construction company for her. Without good representation - the construction company would probably be able to pay her off with blood money for Dhs 200,000 (just over $50,000). Still, even with good representation, she won't get much - certainly not enough to raise her kids without their father.

Shuaib Baig - he was a good man.

Mamacita said...
I'm sorry you had to witness it.

Just wanted to clarify that I did not witness his death. I've just related the incident as we have come to understand the facts of what happened. If I had witnessed this - I'm sure there is no way I'd have the sanity to sit here typing right now.

Edited to add:
Please continue to keep Shuaib's family in your thoughts and/or prayers. His family is horribly distraught and suffering at this time.

My Fingers Are Numb

And my toes are aching like they have the beginning of frost bite.

The A/C is working in my new office. Just 2 days ago it wasn't. Typical Dubai - A/C gone MAD.

I moved into the office a little over a week ago and lived for over a week without A/C. My office is on the sunny side of the building in the mornings. So, each day the heat would gradually build up to a low roast. It was uncomfortable. I felt like a Baptist church-goer as a I sat in my office fanning myself with paper fans. I was glad to hear others complain it was hot, too - otherwise I might have thought I was going through THE CHANGE.

Now, I'm afraid to mention anything. It's better this way. I have a wrap - although it clashes horribly with the shirt I'm wearing today. Maybe I'll wait a day or two and then see if there's some adjustment that can be made that doesn't send me back to square one.

If I really need some relief, I can step outside where temps are in the mid-90s these days. I was thrilled to walk a block down the street to pick up my lunch this afternoon.

It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas

Last night, I took my team out for Iftar - the dinner to celebrate the breaking of the fast during Ramadan. We went to a local hotel where they served an impressive buffet. Our table was jammed into the dining area along with a mass of people - many of them also companies and teams out to celebrate together. The buffet included over 50 dishes to choose from (nearly 20 on the dessert table alone).

It used to be that Iftar was a quiet family dinner. Families would meet to break the fast at sunset. Traditionally, people will break the fast with dates and juice. This would be followed by a family dinner.

But all over the Muslim world, Iftar is becoming a grand affair. Here in Dubai, we have over 30 sumptuous buffets to choose from - most hosted in the finest hotels in the city. The hotels are decorated with the decor of traditional Arabia - bedouin tents, sitting areas with low cushions and pillows, sisha smoking areas, and oud players. Some even go so far as to build tents in the hotel grounds. In Saudi Arabia, our team had a company Iftar (similar to having the Company "Winter Holiday" Party back home). A few days after the company Iftar, our Saudi team hosted a Customer Iftar - with over 700 customers and spouses attending the feast.

Traditional Iftar fare includes:

Dates - and other fruits
Juices - and for some reason Vimto (which is locally popular in the UAE, but I'm not sure about other countries)
Laban - which is kind of like runny yogurt. Many will put dates or fruit or rose water syrup into their laban
Roasted Lamb - I think the traditional preparation has them wrapping up the lamb and then burying it into the sand with coals - similar to the preparation of a pig at a Hawaiian luau.
Rice - typically spiced with cinnamon and cardomom.
Arabic Desserts - loaded with honey, phyllo pastry, butter and nuts. Some will substitute rose water syrup for the honey. But they are just one biteful after another of sweet, buttery, nutty, gooey loveliness.

Today's Iftar also has:
Schwarma (aka Gyro)
Indian Curry
Hummus, Tabouleh, and Moutabel
Numerous Salad
Mixed Grilled Meats (including Lamb, Chicken and Kofta - which is kind of like lamb sausage)
Additional Desserts - chocolate cakes, flans and tortes.

Barack Obama is Not a Muslim

Not that there's anything wrong with that.

Have any of you out there received the emails that are flying around stating that Obama is a Muslim? What a weird place America is in these days - when you can actually "accuse" someone of being a certain religion. And that so many Americans will see that as equivalent to being a terrorist or fanatist - but most certainly strange. Do you know that there is actually MORE religious tolerance here in Dubai than there is back home? Yes, there is more religious tolerance than in the US - where we are supposedly founded upon the ideas of religious freedoms.

I read that one of the emails quotes Obama as stating that the Muslim call to prayer (which he heard at least 5 times daily when living in Indonesia) is one of the most beautiful things he's ever heard - and of course insinuating that this makes him a Muslim. And I can vouch for you that it is. It is beautiful. And westerners here will tell you that they love the call. It is a sound which premeates the environment here and is so soothing. But just because someone likes it doesn't mean they're secretly Muslim (not that there's anything wrong with that).

I'm glad we've had our chance to live here so that I can understand how normal it is to be Muslim. How skewed my perceptions were back home. How we're indoctinated to think Muslim's are weird, semi-civilized people teetering on the brink of radicalism. How sad, how sad, how sad. I'm so glad to be living in a part of the world where I've been able to see things differently. From a distance, it's so disappointing to see these lies which capitalize on our fears and rely upon our ignorance. Really, how sad.

So, please, you 20 or so people out there who actually read this. Please tell at least 20 people that you know that Obama is not a Muslim. Never mind how you're going to vote. This is a call for the sanity of reason and tolerance in our voting public. Please tell people to vote how they want - but don't make a decision based on these crazy lies intended to spread an irrational fear and continue the ignorance that we have toward Muslims.

Boy It's Humid

The ambiance today: beige haze with a touch of yellow glow. Haze hung so thick in the air, it was difficult to distinguish the outlines of the buildings. To add to our pleasure, 80% humidity. At least the temps are below 40 (for now). This morning, the humidity had completely fogged up my car. So, as I drove out of the neighborhood, streaks of water ran across the windows and collected dust as they went along. So, now I have a dust streaked car.

One of my favorite things about traveling to Europe last week was some blue sky. Hard to believe how much the blue sky will lift your spirits. We rarely have blue sky here. Always a bit hazy. Someone mentioned to me that the further north you are, the more brilliant the blue in the sky. So, perhaps what we have here is a combination of living so far south plus the haze that makes the sky seem a pale beigey blue.

I will say that the temps are showing great signs of tapering off. We had some friends over for dinner on Friday and we ate dinner outside on the patio. It was a beautiful night to hop into the pool for a quick dip to cool off. It was still warm (temps in the 90s), but the breeze was helping to keep us all cooled off. Even though the daytime temps are still peaking over 100, it is cool enough in the evening to feel comfortable outside. It feels good to have the peak of summer behind us and looking forward to our lovely warm winter. It will be hard to get used to snow boots again.

Friends v. Family

Lyra's school is starting a curriculum call Friends and Family. It's already starting some thoughts rolling in her mind.

Lyra: Mama, is Uncle Gil in our family?
Me: Yes, he is in our family.
L: Oh, I thought he was a friend.
M: No, he is Baba's brother. So, he is in our family.
L: Like Uncle Paul?
M: Yes, like Uncle Paul and Uncle Steve. They are all Baba's brothers. Baba had another brother, but he died before you met him. He would have been your Uncle Tad or Uncle Ted.
L: How did he die?
M: Well, he was very sick.
L: [who has a cold and we recently discussed fevers and their role in killing germs in the body] So, did he have the germs and did the fever not get them? Did the germs keep coming and coming and he couldn't get better so his body died and his bones became dust?
M: [OK, Russell's been having a few conversations with her I can see] Yes, but he didn't have a cold like you do. He was sick for a very long time and the germs were coming into his body for a long long time.
L: Uncle Ted, I think I hear'd of Uncle Ted. How long was he sick?
M: Well, a very long time. Many years.
L: And Uncle Greg?
M: Well, Uncle Greg is married to Mimi and Mimi is Baba's sister. When you get married to someone, then you become a part of their family.
L: But Raven and Clara and Eleanor are friends, right?
M: Yes, they are friends. But some of our friends are just as important to us as family.
L: So, if you get married and go to live at someone's house, then you are family.
M: [hmm, is it too early to explain the inconsistencies for same-sex couples?] - Yes. We're very lucky we have such a great family.

I'm sure there are more questions to come.

Ramadan Hours

During Ramadan, many business will run reduced hours. Or - in the case of retail will switch their hours to run later into the night.

Our local mall has done this. Many shops open around 2 or 3pm and are open until 2am during Ramadan. This is to accommodate the fact that those who are fasting will spend more hours sleeping during the day (when they cannot eat) and will be up during the night. The malls and restaurants are buzzing with people until early morning. Really, these people can't have jobs. Otherwise, how can they be awake at 2am and then up again at 4am for breakfast and then off to work at 9.

I keep forgetting about Ramadan hours. I have tried on 3 separate occassions to drop off my dry cleaning. Each time the place is closed. What is particularly frustrating is that remembering to drop of my dry cleaning is a minor victory for me. I can drive around with dry cleaning in the car for days, weeks, even months. So, to remember for 3 different times in a 2 week period - I'm feeling pretty good about the ol' brain cells. Finally, I gave up and went to a different dry cleaners who seems to be running more normal business hours.

Now, I'll need to hope for the small victory of remembering to PICK UP the dry cleaning. Actually, I gave the ticket to Russell hoping that HE will remember to pick it up. (Tomorrow, please, Russell - it will be ready tomorrow).

Maestro

Only in England could they have a reality program that is a competition to select the best amateur orchestra conductor.

The program is run along similar lines to American Idol. Contestants seem to be B-List celebrities. They each pick their own piece of classical music. For a week, they practice with the studio orchestra and then on the TV program, they perform for the television audience. Then judges decide who should be eliminated.

By coincidence I've tuned in to the final program. The two contestants are both conducting Beethoven's 5th Symphony as the finale performance.

Would this program have any chance of attracting even 1 viewer in the US? Not unless they were conducting in the nude.

The BBC - gotta love it!

Photo Update

I've been remiss in loading some photos lately. Here are a few from our summer!

First Day of School
Her new teacher, Ms Nasser, is from Belgium but speaks with an Americanized accent. She says that she went to international schools growing up.

Ballet Class
Lyra now tells me that she doesn't like ballet. I don't know why - I think because she can't be in the same class as her friend Inaya. Anyway, she's registered for at least one more semester. Not surprisingly, she's the only one in a black leotard.

The Collective (GraceandJackandRose)

Every day Lyra asks if she can call for the neighbors, GraceandJackandRose.

Lyra loves Thomas
We had a grand time with our friends Anne and Andrew while staying in Wimbledon. Lyra loves staying with the boys, but was especially smitten with Thomas - he IS the cheeky one.

Can you tell we're sisters?

First lost tooth.

Sippy Cup Contraceptive

The other day at dinner Lyra stated, "I'm going to always use a sippy cup because I don't want to have a baby in my tummy and move out."

Russell and I looked at each other. I believe I muttered something about it being good that she doesn't have a baby until she's ready. Then Russell told her that she would WANT to move out when she was older - but that we'd be old enough by then to move in with her so she could take care of us.

This all stems from seeing Mamma Mia the other day. At the end of the movie, the daughter is sailing off with her boyfriend and Lyra starts crying. "Is she leaving her Mamma? Why? That's so sad." She's definitely in a mode where she loves us and being with us - and the thought of actually WANTING to one day leave is incomprehensible. I think the sippy cup represents staying a child not so much a means of contraception. Although if it was, I'm sure I could make a mint telling parents to keep their kids on the sippy through to their 20's (30's even).

The Uterus Club

During my entire career - I've always suspected that men felt there was a secret Uterus Club that all women belonged to.

As a young manager, I was often brought in to help "coach" the younger women in our office. Even if they were managed by someone else - even if I had barely met the person, I'd get a call from my boss, "Julie, please meet with Mary and talk to her about her clothes." Or, "Julie, Joan has been having problems getting along with John, please meet with her to find out what is happening."

On the one hand, it was a bit flattering to think that I had the capabilities to resolve. But on the other, it was awkward to meet with someone I barely knew, call her into my office, and then start counseling her on the choice of clothing - or asking her personal questions about a problem she might be having with a co-worker. I always agreed with the comments I was being asked to deliver, but wondered why the fully capable (and more senior) men in my office couldn't have these conversations.

I'd say to my girlfriends when relating the stories - Do they think there's some sort of Uterus Club where all women are able to gather together and tell each other these things? Since we share the sisterhood of the uterus am I somehow more qualified to talk to them. After several years and getting very comfortable with my boss I once told him - I'm going to have a hysterectomy so that you'll stop calling me to have these awkward conversations with the women in our office. That actually helped.

In the current Presidential election - there has been a lot of discussion about the "woman vote" and whether Hillary supporters would be able to shift to Obama. I was speaking to a friend of mine who was having a hard time letting go of the dream of a woman at the top of a ticket and shifting her vote. I told her - Girl, you got to start voting with your cojones and not your uterus.

Now, John McCain has sealed it for me - you guys really do think there's a Uterus Club, don't you?

Ramadan Mubarek

The Holy Month of Ramadan starts tomorrow (Sept 1). There is a special committee in Saudi Arabia that watches for the crescent of the old moon. When this is sighted, then Ramadan follows on the next day. So, the crescent moon has been sighted. The new moon will be tonight and tomorrow will be the first day of Ramadan.

Muslims view Ramadan as a special time of religious celebration. It is a time for families, giving thanks, and appreciating the life and opportunities you have been given. Traditionally this is a huge time for families. Each evening, as they break their fast, the families gather for large meals, gatherings and celebrations until the early hours of the morning. The day gets turned around for many (who don't have to work) - people will stay up until 2, 3 or 4 - then go to sleep. Even the children are up.

The fasting is observed from the time of sunrise to sunset. I've been asking a few friends in the office - what do you do if you live in Sweden or somewhere that there's either no sunset or just an hour or two? I've had some interesting responses. Some will tell me that the Muslims in these areas need to observe the fast no matter how many hours (which would kill you if you didn't get to drink water for 29 days). Others will say that they need to move to a different city for the month of Ramadan and then observe the fast in that city - hmmm, doesn't sound too practical. Others will say that they should observe the timings of Mekkah. Actually, there's probably no single answer. I'm sure that different families will do different things if they are living in an area that far north.

This will be our second Ramadan. Last year, it was interesting to speak to Lyra about respecting someone else's beliefs (by not eating or drinking in public) even if you don't believe it yourself. I was reminding her that Ramadan would be starting and seeing what she remembered. She was telling me that - but it's ok for children to eat and drink (and she's right). She was told this by a little friend at the pool. So, she was trying to understand why Russell and I wouldn't fast. "Well, we don't have the same beliefs," I told her. "Why not?" "We just don't." --Hmm, not too profound, I know. I'm sure it will come up again - so, I'll be thinking about what to say the next time.

Dreams Come True - Almost

I have a recurring nightmare. Actually, it's a recurring nightmare theme. The theme is that I'm traveling somewhere and I'm lost, or fogotten where I'm going, or am trying to get there but can't. The mode of travel will change. I've had a version of this dream where I was walking through the underground tunnels of the London Tube. Another version was driving through a city and trying to get to a particular building. Another was traveling on a space ship and trying to find my way through the spaceport to my departure gate. Frequently, the theme has to do with air travel. I can't find my gate, can't find the airport, have forgotten something and need to run home and then can't find where I'm supposed to go.

On paper (or computer screen) I'm sure this dream sounds innocuous - but believe me, I've spent many a restless night fighting my way through this dream. I often wake up exhausted and feeling like another night's rest would do me good.

I had this dream a couple of nights ago. I dreamt that I'd forgotten I needed to go to the airport and then when I remembered I realized I needed to go home to get my luggage and was worried that I wouldn't be able to get my luggage before my flight left. I guess my upcoming trip triggered this - but it's not always travel that triggers the dream.

Yesterday, I had a flight to Jeddah. Russell and Lyra dropped me off at the airport after work - around 7pm. After check-in, I went through passport control and security to make my way to the gate. As I was nearing the departure area I realized with a jolt - OH NO, I forgot my computer at home! You've all had that mind-race when you need to quickly determine what to do. I called Russell, they had just arrived back home and he quickly got back into the car to drive back to the airport (bless him). Luckily we live only 15-20 minutes away.

In the meantime, I tried to figure out how I could go "backwards" through security and passport. At first, I tried to go through the arrivals area - as if I had just landed. But the immigration wouldn't let me through. Everyone kept asking me, "Where are you coming from?" as I tried to explain - "I live here - I'm trying to leave, but I forgot something in the car. I need to go and get it." Finally, a kind soul from Emirates Airlines (not even my airline - I was flying Saudi Airlines) escorted me back to the departure area. The police took my passport and a security woman escorted me out to the passenger drop off area where Russell had just arrived. I got the computer and then made my way back through security and to the gate - arrived with plenty of time! Whew.

On the plane, I was seated in the upstairs area of the 747 - which was packed. Today, I told everyone in the office I must have been seated in the "children's section". There were two Saudi families traveling back from their summer hols. Each family had 4-5 kids. So, I was surrounded by nearly 10 kids and one nanny. Where were the parents? In first class of course. Actually, they were pretty well behaved - just full of energy. Lots of shouting back and forth to one another, getting up to go to each other's seat, calling the cabin crew, trading one beverage for another, showing each other how to play video games, etc.

Interestingly, none of the kids spoke Arabic - they all spoke English. They understood Arabic when the flight crew spoke to them, but always responded in English. I was relating this observation to someone in the office and he agreed that this often happens when the kids are raised by nannies who don't speak Arabic. Many of the wealthy families have kids who rarely use Arabic. Even the parents will switch to English when speaking with their kids.

Car Horns

I've determined that the world is divided into two kinds of people. Those that find car horns loud, obnoxious, and irritating - the Keep Irritating Sounds Silent folks (KISSers). And those that find it a useful car feature to be used with frequency and regularity - the Car Horn User Group (CHUGs)

CHUGs pull up to a house and honk the horn to get the person they're picking up to come outside. If the horn honking fails to produce the desired result, they will honk longer and louder. If that fails, they will lay on the horn continuously. Obviously, getting out of the car to ring the doorbell is not an option. Never mind that it's 4am and they're pulled up to the villa outside my bedroom window.

When a CHUG pulls up to wait for you to leave a parking spot if they find that you're taking too much time buckling in the child, putting your packages in the trunk, and turning on the engine - they'll give a little blast on the horn. As a KISSer, I'm totally tempted when they do that to go back there and tell them that there is NO WAY I'm giving them my spot - they can just move their rude little CHUG a*s along.

CHUGs also find it totally acceptable to pull up 2 feet behind you when trying to pass you on the motorway and beep their horn - followed by flashing of lights. Never mind that there's no where for you to go; the cars ahead are going slowly, the lane to your right is full of slow-moving trucks, and traffic is jammed. What do they think they're going to do, blast through slow and go traffic?

When stopped at a red light, as soon as the light turns green, a CHUG who is 10th in the queue finds the need to blast his horn. How does this help? It does take a few seconds to get a queue moving - we can't all step on our gas peddles and move simultaneously away from the light. Again, the inner KISSer in me wants to get out of my car and go tell him that a little patience will make us all happier people.

CHUGs will also give you a little honk as they're coming up on your blindside - as if to say "Hey, I'm here." Never mind that I've now jumped out of my skin and I'm trying to make sure I don't veer dangerously off the shoulder. Egads!

The latest CHUG incident was last night on my way out of the office. I work in a 30 story building. As I left, there was a CHUG parked outside honking his horn. I can only assume that he was trying to get the attention of someone inside this 30 story building to come outside for their ride. Hello buddy - it's a THIRTY STORY building - they can't hear you. Nevertheless, he proceeded to honk his horn while I crossed from the building to the parking structure, took the lift to my parking level, and then walked to my car. All the while, his CHUG instincts increasing to ever longer blasts on the horn.

I try to tell myself, these CHUGs come from a place where the sound of the horn has no corresponding relationship to irritation or obnoxious behaviour. They don't have any idea that I find this behaviour so unbelievably rude that I struggle to keep my inner serial killer under control. I tell myself, they don't mean it, don't get upset, just relax, calm down. But my KISSer instincts are strong - it's hard not to get riled.

Most cities are either CHUG or KISSer cities. In the US, I think we mostly have KISSer cities - although maybe in New York City there's a little bit of CHUGiness. In London, it was definitely KISSer. In India - it's CHUG all the way. And I have no way of knowing what the true Dubai is, but I would guess that Dubai-ites are CHUGs. The thing about Dubai NOW the immigrants come from a mix of CHUG and KISSer cities. It's one of the unique things about Dubai - this mixture of East and West, Developed World and Developing World, modesty and immorality, CHUGs and KISSers.

As a KISSer, if you move to a CHUG city (like Mumbai), you have no choice but to recognize you're a minority. Every single driver in a CHUG city exhibits these behaviors and you soon realize it is just a normal part of the street code. But here, there is such a balance between KISSers and CHUGs that the CHUGs stand out - more than 50% of the cars demonstrate KISSer etiquette leaving you with the hope that maybe possibly the CHUGs will soon learn (oh please, will they learn).

I can only imagine that the CHUGs are totally oblivious to this difference - that only the KISSers get irritated at this difference. I mean really, my KISSer quiet driving habits certainly cannot be an irritation to the CHUGs. But, you never know.

Pampered Ladies

The big bru-ha-ha here is that the petrol stations are going self-serve. There is a great hullabaloo that has erupted on one of the local chat rooms about having to get out of your car to fill it up with petrol.

So far, only one petrol group has started. They have chosen a few stations to pilot with - and I'm assuming will roll it out from there. The method they have chosen is bound to create longer lines at the stations. They have everyone going in to pre-pay for gas. You must specify how much you want - you cannot just say "fill it". If you over-pay and your tank is full before you've used your full credit - you have to go in and get a refund. Now that's silly! If they're really going to do this, they need to get pay-at-the-pump machines. Otherwise, who's going to want to be treking back and forth into the shops to queue for payment and then again for a refund. Especially in this heat.

But what is really amusing to me are the women who are up in arms about having to get out of their car to fill their tanks. I feel like I'm transported back to the 1950's. Lord help us if a woman might put a ladder in her tights (as they would say here) by getting out of the car to put stinky smelly petrol in the car. An actual quote (which summarizes the whole debate) from the local chatroom:

"Its not that I can't use a petrol pump...I just hate being told that they are providing me with "european service" which:
1) Results in my makeup running
2) May cost me time
3) May result in petrol on my clothes
4) Makes me hot (in a bad way)
5) Results in me leaving my kids (or passengers or work collegues) in the car (with the aircon off) whilst I pay the bill.

etc etc etc

How is that going to improve my day?"

All Together Now

Russell & Lyra arrived back in Dubai late on Thursday night. They're still struggling with the jet lag (getting up in the middle of the night, then falling back to sleep until mid-morning). School's not on for another 3 weeks, so plenty of time to work on getting to the right schedule.

The heat has been brutal the last couple of days. Yesterday, we saw highs over 115. The humidity has been pretty low and evenings are cooling off pretty well. Low humidity also means the pool temps are pretty comfortable. Still, it makes the day's pretty long. Lyra and Russ will be well and truly stir crazy by the time school starts on September 7th. Luckily the kids next door are thrilled to see Lyra and so the kids are playing together all day long.

Ramadan has been announced to start on Sept 1. In preparation, we made a booze-run to the emirate that sells liquor without a liquor license. They will be closed all of Ramadan, so thought we should stock up. We now have fixin's for margaritas - so, we'll need to have a mexican dinner one of these nights.

It's good to have a buzz in the house again. The non-stop chatter from Lyra is music to my ears (for now). The kids running in and out - and even leaving the front door open - is fun to hear.

Ode to a Missing Tooth

Before you peeked your pearly head into the world,
did you see the tiny baby in her crib?
What scenes of feeding and snuggling were observed?
Were little toes and fingers counted on her arrival?
Who wrapped and carried a precious bundle to the gate?
On a damp and chilly day, a bed was made to keep the foundling warm.
Did she cry amid the sounds and sighings of her infant peers?
Cold breezes foiled by heavy swaddling from which tiny faces peeked.
Awaiting sunny days to be pleasantly observed at open windows.
What sights you've witnessed that we will never know.

The tears and pain of your emergence are unrecorded.
Were fingers run across the gum to sense your new arrival?
Yes, little bibs were placed to catch the falling drool.
What joy you found in first bites of eel-fish soup and congee.
"Niu-niu" and "Ai Ni" the first words you helped her say.
Then we heard her gracious "Dat doo" mimicking our Thanks.
Cheerios and Gold Fish became a new and common treat.
And teething rings were grasped and gnawed in relief
as new arrivals join you in a happy smile.
What sights you've witnessed and shared in joy with us.

A visit to the dentist was greeted with elation.
X-rays record your unseen roots beneath the gum.
New brush and floss received with grateful fun.
She's cared for you with well known night routines
and waited with expectation the tiny wiggle that announced
a childhood era's arrival and a soon departed friend.
And so you go with fairies to a mysterious land and
leave her to the watchful eye of us who share your devotion.
We bid goodbye to you who kept a quiet record.
Your leaving announced unlike your mute arrival.

Men's 4x100 Relay

The only bit of live Olympic coverage I've seen so far were the last 2 legs of the men's 4x100 swimming relay. I came out of yoga class and in the office they were watching the race. I saw the US men fall ever more slightly behind the French with each stroke and turn. Until the last half lap when Jason Lezak poured it on!! Wow, I have never seen such a comeback. At one point, he was behind by over 0.60 seconds.

I did a little high-five with the office administrator. Woo hoo, how exciting. I remember when we watched the olympics when we lived in London. Being away from home, it's fun to root for the US. Feels a little more patriotic. I'm not ready to sing Lee Greenwood's "God Bless the USA" just yet, but it's fun to root for the home team. In Dubai, there are so many people from so many countries, it's fun to have a little rivalry with the neighbors.

Yea - I know I'm on the late show with this one. I'm sure this has been played and re-played back home. But in case you missed it: http://eroom.johnsoncontrols.com/eRoom/building_efficiency/ME_IT_Department/0_491ef

Hot, humid and uncomfortable days ahead in the UAE

Heh, heh. After telling Russell for the last few days how comfortable the weather has been here - especially in the evenings. This is the headline in the Gulf News today. When the local paper is reporting that it will be hot - then you better listen. I will confirm that today's walk down to a shop for lunch was steamy.

It's just as well. This way Russell and Lyra will have some days/weeks of hot weather and then can appreciate the cool down when September comes. ;-)

We're Having a Sandstorm (plus Olympics coverage)

It's not the Shamaal - that is a sandstorm which comes out of Iran and Iraq and blows sand across the Persian Gulf to us. No, today it is actually calm outside. But surprisingly around 5 o'clock I looked outside and could barely see across the road. From the 19th floor, it looked quite thick. But once down on ground level it seemed a little less dramatic. Just like with a snow storm, it can be much worse out in the country side. There were lots of accidents reported on the radio from the roads that led out of Dubai to nearby cities and emirates. On the radio, they mentioned that the sand settling on the road would effect your stopping distance the same as gathering snow and ice on the roads.

What caused it? A rainstorm. Yep, a rainstorm caused a cloud of dust so big that the entire city of Dubai is engulfed in a sand cloud. Usually, we're used to rain cleaning the air. Not here. The rain happened about 50km south of here in Al Ain. Probably was just a few drops of rain - nothing to really wet the ground. Just enough to stir up the sand and dust from the falling drops and then move on.

What is a sand cloud like? Well, it's a lot like fog - you can't really see the sand or feel it. But instead of the air being white with a blue/grey hint it is instead beige with a yellow hint. I'm sure the small particles of sand are much more harmful to your lungs than the droplets of water in fog. This sand is light like dust - almost the consistency of cake flour. Very, very fine sand dust flying around coating EVERYTHING. If you have asthma or any breathing difficulties - today will be a difficult day. Personally, I'm not feeling any effect. Bas seemed ok on our walk, too. (spoke too soon - he just started his weird throat clearing snort a la Tony Randall's Felix from the Odd Couple)

Good thing there's no laundry hanging out - OH WAIT, there is. Ooops. Good thing it's just the towels and rags for cleaning the house. Hmmm, must run out to get that.

UAE Olympics Coverage
The UAE has sent 9 athletes to the olympics this year. Nearly 50% of the team is royalty. The daughther of the current Ruler of Dubai was the flag bearer for the team in the opening ceremony. She will compete in Taekwando. I think it's the ruler's cousin who was a gold medalist at the Athens olympics for Double Trap shooting. He is competing again this year. There are rumors that Dubai will be bidding to host an upcoming Olympics. Qatar's bid for 2012 was denied when they proposed that they would host the Olympics in October. They challenged the Olympics committee to reconsider since that would essentially eliminate any Middle East country from placing a successful bid. Believe me - athletes would NOT want to be competing here in August.

Terminal 3

Today, I had a chance to volunteer for Dubai International Airport to help test the new Terminal 3 in Dubai. They sent an email a few weeks ago and I responded that I'd be available. I showed up at 10:30 and was given my script. I was Jorge Torres on a 12:30 flight to Frankfurt. I was invited to use the Business Class check-in which got me a pass into the Business Class lounge. Went through passport control where I was taken in back because I had overstayed my visa. Then after realizing there were no computers back there to complete the simulation, the immigration staff "let me go". Went through security, where I had the most thorough checking of my handbag ever! "What's this??" the security woman inquired with great curiosity over my teeny tiny fold up umbrella. "An umbrella," I answered. "Open it," she requested with amazement. At the check in gate, we actually boarded a plane. No pilots, but there was a flight crew to check us on board.

I met a guy in the waiting area who had on a Milwaukee Panthers tee-shirt and was carrying a retro-look Harley Davidson motorcycle helmet. I asked him if he was from Milwaukee. No, he is Arab, but he went to college in Milwaukee. He loves it there and is planning to send his daughter there for university. He was wearing his Georgio Armani jeans, Harley biker boots, the Panthers tee-shirt, and carrying a motorcycle helmet. Guess he picked up a lot of Milwaukee when lived there. He moved back to the Middle East in 1990, but travels back to Milwaukee frequently to visit his friends. Luckily for him, he got his US citizenship when he was a student. Otherwise, traveling back to the US for most Arabs is a pain in the ass.

Impressions? The terminal is HUGE!! Really, really huge. The business class lounge is HUGE and spacious and lovely. The baggage claim area is HUGE and probably should have a few more moving walkways. The terminal is a long giant tube that has been squashed into an oblong. I think I've heard that the opening of this terminal will triple the passenger capacity in Dubai. Yeah for us who live near the flight path. It's expected to open in late September or early October. I think that it will be dedicated to Emirates Airlines. So, you'll need to book on Emirates to fly through there. If you do, you'll be pretty impressed.

--------------------------------

Fride Update - it's fixed. Well, it was for 24 hours and then I noticed late on Thursday night that it wasn't working again. This time, it was well and truly dead it seemed - not even the inside light was working. I was stomping around and cursing the inefficiency of the labor force here. And also grateful that I hadn't gone out to the grocery store to re-stock. While on the phone with Russell and grousing about it he asked, "Have you checked the circuit breaker?" Ahhh - good idea. That was it! Yeah! I was saved an embarassing call to the repairman.

Milwaukee 8/8/88 - 8/8/08

Twenty years ago, I moved to Milwaukee.

My girlfriend in college was from Milwaukee (in fact I had 2 roomates during college who were from Milwaukee). She was engaged and wanted to move back home to be close to her parents for her last year being single. I had never lived away from home and Milwaukee seemed like a good idea. Plus, I had hopes that "something" might work out with her brother. So, we packed up our apartment in Friendly Fridley, MN and came to Milwaukee.

Her job was with the Milwaukee Public School systems and she was required to live in the City of Milwaukee. My job was actually 45 minutes outside of the city in Brownsville, WI. I was working for a cheese company.* We moved out onto the northwest corner of town onto Appleton Avenue.

After a year, she got married and moved to Minneapolis. I stayed in Milwaukee. It always seemed ironic to me that she was living in my hometown and I was living in hers. That's when my mother started dropping hints about when I might be moving back. And honestly, I don't know why I didn't start to. The cheese-job was a mistake (ever had a job where after the flurry of activity on your first day you sit at your desk, look around, and think "OK, this was a mistake"), "something" was actually nothing with her brother, and I needed to find a new apartment because the one we were sharing was too big for me by myself. Why I didn't pack my car and just head back up I-94, I don't know. Well, I did have a great circle of friends and I was starting to look around for a new job. So, I stayed.

Soon after my girlfriend got married I found a new job that I loved. A couple years after that, I met Russell. And now, it's been 20 years - give or take a few years. I still call Minneapolis my hometown, but Milwaukee is home. I love this city.

*Everyone who lives in Wisconsin should work in the dairy industry at least once. It is your social obligation to help keep Wisconsin nominated as America's Dairyland (which everytime I type in Russell's blog id - russface.diaryland.com I always have to make sure I don't type dairyland). Did you know that California passed Wisconsin as America's number one dairy producer? It happened several years ago - maybe even around the time that I moved to Wisconsin.

Warm Walk

This year, I can tell that I'm getting used to the heat. At least, my body can tell the difference between a 110 and a 100 degree day. Like today, temps were in the upper 90's most of the day and then just barely crept over 100 for the peak temps. I could tell coming into work this morning that it was a cooler day. Last year, it just seemed hot - all of it was hot, every day was hot. Hot was hot was hot. There didn't seem to be any difference from one day to another. This year, the hot days are still hot, but a day like today seemed quite nice. Not cool, but warm. And warm is nice - compared to hot.

I guess I can say I've acclimated to the heat. When Basil and I headed out on our walk today it was around 97 and I could tell that the temps were dropping into a nice comfortable mid-90s as we continued. Even Basil found it comfortable. This time, as we were walking, I was trying to notice the "every day" things that I see that are no longer strange to me, but were when we first moved here.

Like the housemaids that gather every night around 6 or 7. I don't know what houses they come from, but they all seem to come out around that time. Some of them have a little gathering for a few minutes while they walk the household dogs. Others will have a chat near the dumpsters while they are both taking out the rubbish for the night. But no matter how hot, they always seem to come out around 6 or 7 for a little break in their day. Some of the housemaids have children and when the weather really is nice, the kids come out with them too to ride their bikes up and down the street.

There are the night watchmen that are on duty overnight at each construction site in the neighborhood. These fellows have a little hut built out of plywood on the construction lot. Inside I guess is a bed - and I'm not even sure if there is any electricity. In the evenings, they usually will sit outside to get some of the breeze that usually picks up in the evening. Often, they will walk over to one of the homes in the neighborhood that has a free water dispenser outside and fill up their water bottles. As a charity to the workers, many households will install water dispensers outside their walls. Our neighbors across the street have one and it is well used. The construction workers and laborers in the neighborhood are always filling up empty water bottles.

There's the gardener/driver/house boy who is usually spraying down the driveway to wash off all the sand and dust. What a waste of water. It streams down the roadside. The sand and dust will gather here like swirling snow gathers in the corners of your doorway and near the garage. Russell has a "leaf blower" that he's been using to blow the dust away. If you don't do something, you'd soon have a small dune gathering in your garage. But most of the other households in our neighborhood have the house keeper or driver wash down the garage and driveway with a hose. It drives me nuts to see it. Technically, it is against city ordinance to do it. But no one ever stops them.

There's a guy who rides through our neighbor hood with a lawn mower balanced in a basket on his bicycle. He goes around to houses peddling his services as a gardener. I'm always amazed to see him toodling by with a lawn mower on his bicycle. There's a house round the corner from here that I see him tending. Their gardens look pretty nice. Our friends Mariam and Mohammed have a gardner, they pay him 250 Dhs per month and he comes nearly every day (that's less than US$100). Lots of fellows will walk the neighborhood in the evening looking for extra work (car washing, hosing down the driveway, gardening, etc.) They are usually laborers from a nearby construction site looking for a way to make a little extra money - like our car wash guy who comes on Friday. I have no idea where he is staying or how far away it is, but like clockwork he is always here on a Friday to wash the cars.

There are lots of folks walking down the side of the road (no sidewalks mind you) heading to the local mini-mart. It is amazing the variety of items that these little grocery's have packed in them. And the prices are pretty much comparable to what you'd see at our supermarket. Lots of them will stock items that are from India and the laborers like to go in there and get a little something from home. They do a brisk enough business that they have good turnover on most stock, too. And they all deliver, too. Russell and I have never actually called for a delivery, but they'll bring over a litre of milk for you, a dozen eggs, a few apples, kilo of sugar - you name it. I've been told they will deliver a single can of soda if you asked. Don't know why we haven't asked for delivery. We just tend to get in the car and run to the shops real quick if we realize we need something.

Tonight I went to the locak mini-mart. I was hankering for something cold - seeing as how the fridge guys failed to show up today. And failed to call me and tell me that they would instead be coming TOMORROW. And I only found out when I called to find out where they were and why they hadn't yet shown up. I did not keep my cool. I knew I'd need patience for this. But knowing you need patience and actually HAVING patience are two different things.

Luckily for me, the woman who has been cleaning our house can come by tomorrow at 8am and wait for them. Oh readers, please send me your good thoughts, light some insense, say a hail mary for us to have better luck tomorrow.

Hot Walks

I've been taking Basil on a long walk in the evenings. The sun has mostly gone down and the intensity of the heat as dissipated. But still it's hot - somewhere in the low 100's usually.

We have been heading out to new areas of our neighborhood. Sometimes it's to run a quick errand to the small grocery store. Other times it's just a stroll to stretch our legs and get a little bit of non-A/C air. At first, I was concerned that Ol' Baz was just a bit too old for this now. But mostly I think he was out of shape from nearly 4 weeks at the kennels with very little exercise. Now, he's trotting along as usual.

While we're out, I'm usually interested in watching the pace of construction on the many villas that are going up. It's also interesting to compare the "old" villas (say 20 years old) with the newer ones. It doesn't take long in the sun and heat for something to look haggard and worn. These 20 year old villas sometimes look like they're about to crumble. I'm also curious to see the gardens of each place. You can tell a villa with a house maid or not. If the garden requires daily watering with the hose - well then there's obviously a house maid (or house boy - as they're called here).

Last night we saw a speeding youth get pulled over by the police (first time I've ever seen that!) We also met a few new neighbors - who were out because their car got hit by a passing car (the driver was kind enough to stop and let them know so they could call the police). Hence the police were in the neighborhood when the speeding youth passed by. Saw a couple of joggers (why?). And saw a woman (house maid, I think) who was walking 8 small dogs - all of different breeds. The pace of activity picks up around 6pm - people are feeling stir crazy around then. It's nice to get out and enjoy the buzz** of the neighborhood as folks get out and about.

When we get home, Bazil is panting and I'm all sweaty. First thing he does is put his belly onto the cold marble tiles - doesn't even go to get a drink until he's stopped panting and cooled down. Yesterday, I took a quick dive into the pool - ahhhh. It was cool enough to feel good (or I was warm enough for it to feel cool).

** Speaking of buzz - we have a bee hive that has formed out in the back pool area. It's about the size of a loaf of bread - maybe a skinny loaf of bread. Mostly the bees are very calm. But they have their active times (usually in the morning) when they seem to be flying about. So far, we've left it. It's up high above where either Lyra or I could actually reach it. I guess my only concern is that it just keeps getting bigger (of course). It's fun to watch. But are we tempting fate? I always think that if they decide to swarm we'd just hop into the pool for safety. So far, we're letting it bee (haha, couldn't resist). What with all the recent mystery about disappearing bees, I kind of feel like we're doing our part to help preserve them.

How To Live Without a Fridge

1. Eat lots of peanut butter.
2. Get take-away.
3. Drink black coffee.
4. Drink red wine.
5. Leave no leftovers.

I noticed on Thursday that something was wrong. At first I thought that maybe I had forgotten to securely close the freezer. A few things were appearing mushy or melty, but not totally defrosted, yet. Then yesterday (Friday), it was clear that something was definitely wrong. Everything in the freezer was melted. No ice for high balls. No frozen blueberries for my cereal. Already, overnight the milk for my cereal had gone bad - blech.

Given this heat, I wasn't taking any chances. So, anything that can't sit out on the counter for a few days without getting poisonous had to go. Unfortunately, that included some great pasta sauce and stock that Russell had made. I've left most of the things in the fridge - hoping that the guys could come by today (Saturday) to fix it and I would be able to save most of it. I would have taken it round to the neighbors - but they've been away all weekend. They would have happily taken it, too.

I called the repair center this morning and they're telling me that they can be here on Tuesday (3 days). I'll have to ask the housekeeper next door to stick around and wait for them to come. In the meantime, I'm eating lots of tomatoes and cucumbers. I'm debating whether certain things should be tossed or not. Like salad dressings, ketchup, soy sauce, eggs, jams, and the like. So far, I'm pretty sure they're all ok. But I'm not sure for how long. And I'm girding myself for patience. I'm sure this will be a long and frustrating experience.

My first clue was when the fellow on the phone didn't recognize the name of the suburb that I live in, Mirdif. OK - that's not reassuring. We're one of the biggest freakin' areas in Dubai. Then when I told him our address (#4 Mexican Charm), he repeated to me #4 Mirdif - oh lordy. Next clue, he didn't recognize the name of my landlord who is supposed to be paying for this and supposedly has an account with them ("No one here recognizes Mr. Al Bahri"). Next clue, he wanted to be sure that I payed them 75Dhs for the inspection fee ("Me? No, Mr. Al Bahri, my landlord, is supposed to pay." ) Then he wanted me to have the invoice for the purchase of the refrigerator ("No, Mr. Al Bahri purchased the refrigerator. I do not have an invoice"). I can't argue - otherwise I'll be without a fridge for weeks/months or until I give up and purchase one for myself. It will be best just to pay and then hope that maybe my landlord maybe, possibly might reimburse me.

My final straw was when the fellow on the phone started talking about taking the fridge into the shop for repair. What?!?! At minimum, I'm sure that the repair person will show up, look at the fridge, determine he doesn't have the spare part, place an order (who knows when that might arrive!) and then tell me he'll be back after the part comes in. Oh lord, please give me the patience of Job. Even better, lord, surprise me with the efficiency of the repairman.

Good thing I like peanut butter. And red wine.

Free Range Lyra

Speaking of free range kids. Lyra took her first solo airplane flight today. She flew from Milwaukee to Minneapolis (a 55 minute flight). Northwest allows children to fly solo from the age of 5. A couple caveats are: the flights must be non-stop (after 8 she can fly with a connection), it cannot be on the last flight of the day, and we have to pay for the escort service. No surprise there - since you pay for everything on the airplanes these days.

When we were in Minneapolis it was a great time visiting with family, but not a lot of chance for one on one time with Grammy and Grumpy. So, we discussed it there that Lyra would fly back for a long weekend and stay with them. When we consulted with her she thought that would be a good idea.

But somewhere along the lines, I think she didn't understand that she'd be flying alone. So, when we were in Milwaukee and talking about it, she started to get pretty nervous about being on her own. As I talked to her, I think she had the idea that she'd have to navigate the airport on her own. Like we'd just pull up to the Departures area and drop her off! So, we spent a lot of time talking about how Russell would be able to take her up to the plane jetway and that Grammy and Grumpy would be waiting at the door on the other end. Plus, she'd have someone to help her find her seat and there would always be someone to help her if she needed anything. It took a few days of talking about it and I wasn't sure that she'd finally be ok with doing it.

Turns out, she did great! On the airplane, she was seated next to two older women - which is good because she can have a little bit of stranger anxiety around men. I asked her if she was nervous and she told me that she was only nervous when the boys wanted to speak to her. I asked if those were "boys" who were working on the plane and she said yes. Grammy told me that she was the last off the plane and as the passengers were getting off they kept asking, "Are you the grandparents of that little girl who's on the plane?" "Yes, we are!" they said. Many people were very impressed with how well she did.

Well, she's no stranger to airplanes. She's logged a lot of hours in the air. She knows the routine. Now she'll be asking to do it all the time!

At Least It's a Dry Heat

NOT!!

If I had a dollar for every time I heard that back home. No, it is NOT a dry heat. The past few days we've been havin' a cool snap. A tropical cool snap.

Even though daytime temps are hovering in the low 100's, the humidity has soared to near 80%. Yuck! Really, I don't know what's worse: Temps near 100 with 80% humidity or temps near 110 with humidiy at 45%. With one, my feet are slipping around inside of my shoes and my hands feel as if they are coated with slime (my own body slime). With the other, it's like a furnace blast resonating up from the pavement through your shoes and into your face every time you walk around.

It's so humid! . . . How humid is it?

When I walked out of the office this morning my glasses fogged up.
The building is collecting condensation on all the windows
I had to run the windsheild wipers to wipe of the condensation that formed where the A/C air is hitting the windsheild.
My hands are slipping off of my handbag straps as I walk down the street.
My hair has developed curls that have never been seen before.
The water on the pavement that leaked from watering the plants last night was still there when I left for work this morning.

Maybe if you've lived in Louisiana or Mississippi, you're used to this. But to me it is just too odd to see the whole building sweating like a cold pitcher of water.

How to cope?
Stay out of the sun (no brainer there).
Learn to live with sweat (sweat happens).
Use prickly heat powder (J&J makes one here).
Carry an umbrella.
Get outside once the sun goes down - or else you'll go mad!
Take a dip in the pool.

Speaking of which, I noticed this morning that the pool is now clean. When I got back from the US, it had been suffering from 3 weeks of no pool guy. It wasn't exactly green, but I couldn't see the bottom - murky. When he came by last Saturday, I saw him head out back, see the mess, and heave a heavy sigh. He mostly vacuumed when he was in on Saturday. When he left, it was still murky, but less so. This wasn't going to be solved in one visit. I figured it was probably ok to swim - I'm sure he had shocked the water. But it seemed less than inviting. Plus, I've been working late and not up for a swim when I finally have a moment around 9 or 9:30 (at that time, I'm feeling a lot like going to bed!) But today, after his second visit yesterday, the pool is crystal clear. I dipped my toe the other day. It's not bath water temps, but there won't be any hint of that cool-shock that you can get when you first get into a pool. I'm hankering for a swim tonight. After I clean the patio, maybe.

And a question for you physics-geeks out there - you know who you are. So, when it's hot - I mean really really hot - like say 110 or 115, it actually seems quieter when I go outside. Doors close more quietly, footsteps sound more muffled. Is it possible that the heat interferes with the transmission of sound? with my ears reception of sound? or am I just imagining it? It's also possible that it is actually more quiet. When it's hot like that - ain't no one wants to be out in that.

Edited to add
So, I looked it up and found this:
http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/may98/896275999.Ph.r.html
It's not super conclusive, but does seem to point to sound traveling better in cold air. And from other web sites I looked at - it seems that maybe humidity has more to do with it than temps. I've yet to find something in plain English that will tell me if things sound more quiet when it is hot and humid. So, if you find it, post here.

Free Range Parenting

Did you know that there was a movement out there called Free Range Kids? It is an attempt to re-capture the ideas that children should be able to more freely explore their neighborhoods and community.

Statistically, there are fewer (not more) violent crimes committed today than when I was growing up. And there are NO MORE stranger abductions or molestations than when I was a kid (we just hear about it more on the fear-mongering news programs in the US). So, the danger is actually less for our kids, but our perception is that there is more danger.

So, at the age of 5 - what were you doing? Were you able to play outside in your yard with your friends without your parents having to be outside? Were you able to walk to the store to buy penny candy? Were you able to cross the street to get to the store? Were you riding the bus to school by yourself?

What about age 10? Were you riding your bike freely through the neighborhood? Were you exploring undeveloped plots of land or creating adventures at the creek/pond/whatever? Were you playing outside with groups of friends in other people's yard? Were you trusted to walk to the park or neighborhood recreational center? Were you allowed to take the bus to go somewhere? Were you walking yourself to school?

I was.

Was I ever approached inappropriately by strangers? Yes. Was I ever threatened by bullies? Yes. Was I ever in the wrong place (tresspassing) or venturing just a bit too far? Yes. Did I do things that would make my mother's hair turn grey? Yes. Did I ever get hurt and have to be taken to the hospital? Yes.

But, would I have been better off being sheltered in my home? Monitored by my parents? Overseen by other adults? Protected from possible dangers? No. No. No. No. I don't think so.

In today's world, we seem to have a parenting approach that prefers sheltering over exploration. Monitoring over mistakes. Protection over injury. What are we telling our children when we raise them this way? What does Lyra think about the world? Will she feel safe walking down the street as an adult? or will she feel an overwhelming sense of doom approaching around every corner? Will she see the world as being full of wonderful people (with a few weirdos, creeps and psychos sprinkled in) or will the world be full of psychos and creeps with the occassional surprisingly wonderful person?

There's something to be said about the spirit of adventure that today's kids are missing out on. A sense of being a responsible person. An understanding that they can be trusted to navigate their community. An expectation that they will make good choices as they move through the neighborhood or are approached by people. An anticipation that most of the people they meet will be kind and friendly.

The frustrating thing is that even if I wanted to choose Free Range Parenting, could I? Would other people view me as putting my child in danger. If you saw a 5-year old at the corner store buying candy without her parents there - what would you think/do? What about a 10-year old riding her bike to school nearly 1 mile away?

To me, the implications for Lyra and how she is allowed to live her life are huge. Because where do I draw the line? If I don't trust her to ride her bike a mile away at 10 will I trust her to choose her curriculum at school? Will she feel the confidence to know that she has the wherewithal to handle what life will throw at her? Am I communicating to her that I don't think she can handle it?

Someone wrote, "I'm raising adults - not children". That has resonated with me. I've been pondering that statement a lot. I like the perspective it puts on things.

Quiz Night 2 - Answers

1. c - Taco Bell. I've always felt that Taco Bell was missing out on a great opportunity in the overseas market. Recently, a Chi-Chi's-like restaurant opened here called El Chico (a Saudi restaurant chain I think). Anyway - the thing is ALWAYS full. Mexican food is really popular here. Amygirl is right, the Arabs do love them some KFC and some Baskin Robbins - they are everywhere here (both of them).

2. d - Eddie Bauer. H&M has become one of my favorites. Especially when I'm shopping for "play clothes" or for Lyra. I had shopped there in Milwaukee (at Bay Shore) and in Chicago. But really discovered them here. The Gap shops and Nine West don't seem to carry the same mix of merchandise as back home. They seem to be more geared to the bling-bling styles here. But back home I noticed that bling is in everywhere, so maybe it's just me that is behind the fashion times. Noooo - that couldn't be it.

3. a - Acura. It is sold here under the Honda brand name. That is true in Europe, too. Acura seems to only be a brand that Honda maintains in the US. As for Cadillac, well the Escalade is probably the most popular Cadillac here. SUVs are alive and well in the Middle East. I think we could sell our FJ Cruiser for the same price as we bought it (nearly 1 year ago). Too bad that the US models are considered 2nd class here. Otherwise, dealers could be shipping all their overstock here to sell it.

4. b - Aveda. Evidently, since Aveda does not use preservatives in their products, they will not ship here due to the heat.

5. d - Chinese Chicken Salad. A shame, too. That is probably my new favorite in McDonald's these days. Here, they still pretty much have the old-fashioned, high fat offerings. They're starting to modernize and get more low fat options. But it doesn't have the same focus as in the US. The McArabia sandwich comes as either Chicken or Lamb. It is a large pita wrapped around the lettuce, tomatoes, meat, and a sauce (maybe a yogurt sauce). It's pretty good.

Indian Radio

What I'm listening to these days (click on Listen Live):

http://arnonline.com/pulse953/

http://www.hit967.com/English/Pages/default.aspx

If you had radio like this would you chose anything else? I love it! I love how they switch back and forth from English to Hindi without pause.

I've given up on English radio - although there's one station that I will listen to now and again, but lately I've given up completely.

Quiz Night 2

1) Which of these food chains is NOT in Dubai?
a) Dunkin Donuts
b) Baskin Robins
c) Taco Bell
d) Kentucky Fried Chicken

2) Which of these clothing store chains is NOT in Dubai?
a) Gap
b) H&M
c) Nine West
d) Eddie Bauer

3) Which of these car makes is NOT in Dubai?
a) Acura
b) Infinity
c) Lexus
d) Cadillac

4) Which of these beauty products is NOT available in Dubai?
a) Dermalogica
b) Aveda
c) Paul Mitchell
d) L'Occitane

5) Which of these items is NOT available at McDonald's in Dubai?
a) Happy Meal
b) McArabia Sandwich
c) McFlurry
d) Chinese Chicken Salad

Jet Lag Update

Well, the whiskey helped - a little. I got to sleep the next night around 9pm. Or should I say I barely missed falling on the floor as I dragged my brain dead self to bed. But I woke up around 3am. Even though my brain was still aching from being tired, my stupid body thought it was time to get up. This is my usual jet lag pattern - fall asleep dead tired and then wake up after only 5 or 6 hours of sleep. Each night I will tend to sleep one hour later until after about 1 week I'm finally on my normal sleep cycle. I did try to get some more sleep, but it's pretty futile usually and was again this time.

Again, off to yoga for my 6:30 class. Again, it was a good choice to be up and doing something to help invigorate my sleep deprived brain. That day was nearly as long as the first. Every moment was a struggle to keep my brain engaged and stop yearning for the sleep time that was hours away. After work, I stopped at the grocery store and picked up Juno at the movie rental desk. I had heard from several folks during our visits that this was a great movie. And somehow I got a second wind and stayed up until midnight to finish watching it. I fell asleep exhausted and slept way past the 4am wake up I expected.

I was roused out of the deepest sleep by the ringing of the doorbell. I was so asleep I struggled at first to understand what was happening and what I should do. It was 7am. What?!? By sheer habit I dragged myself to the intercom. "Hello?" I croaked. "Madam, car wash?" It was our very kind but totally inept car wash man. I can appreciate that on a day where temps are set to soar to near 50 that he'd like to get the cars washed early, but really the fates are against me on this day. "Yes, just a second," and I stumbled upstairs to get something on.

As I came out into the car port he said, "Sorry to disturb, madam." He's really kind and we're soft hearted to keep having him come wash the cars. But he really needs the money. I would guess that with the $40/month we pay him and the next door neighbors pay him he is practically doubling his salary. And over time, with coaching, his car washing has improved so we keep letting him come. He certainly has a thing for making sure the tires are cleaned with tire foam and Son of a Gun.

Even though it was only 7 hours of sleep, today is the first day I've felt close to normal. I didn't doze off in the middle of a sentence. I had the energy to get Basil and the cats from the kennel. Now the place feels less empty - and I'm hoping for better luck tomorrow morning. I'll sip a wee dram just to be certain.

Jet Lag - I've Got a Bad Case

Not as bad as when I threw up in Hong Kong, but just give me a few more hours. Won't be long and I'll be stumbling around the office like a drunken sailor.

I left the house in Milwaukee on Tuesday at 12:20pm their time (9:20pm Dubai time). First flight was a shorty into Chicago and then from Chicago the flight left around 7:30pm (4:30am Dubai time) for London. I had dinner while still on the ground in Chicago, so I got plenty of sleep on that flight over to the UK. Once again, London was putting on her most beautiful face. A gorgeous summer day greeted us when we landed. From London, we left around on Wednesday 12:30pm their time (3:30pm Dubai time) and got into Dubai just after 10pm local time. I had done a good job of staying awake during the flight to Dubai and was feeling pretty tired. When I called Russell to let him know I'd landed, I told him how I was feeling pretty good about how I was transitioning to the time change. I jinxed myself.

After getting my luggage and taking the taxi home, I arrived at just after 11pm (nearly 26 hours door to door). A quick perusal through the house - and then off to bed.

11:50 - So, to bed. My brain is going zing-ga-ding-ga-ding-ding at 100 miles per hour. Can't sleep, can't sleep, can't sleep, can't sleep, can't sleep.
12:20 - Turn on light and try a crossword. I'm so tired that my brain is heavy in my head and my eyes are aching.
12:40 - Back to bed. My brain continues to spin its own little vortex (who needs hurricanes?) House is quiet, I'm all alone, can't sleep, house is quiet, I'm all alone, can't sleep, house is quiet, I'm all alone, can't sleep. Is this what an over-tired toddler feels like?
1:30 - Turn on light and try to read. Really enjoying my book, Out of Africa. Keep reading, and reading, and reading, and reading - how come I'm not falling asleep? My brain is SOSOSOSO tired.
3:00 - Back to bed. Can't sleep, missing Russell & Lyra, can't sleep, missing Russell & Lyra, can't sleep, missing Russell & Lyra. Now I start to throw my own little pity party.
3:10 - Turn on light and go downstairs to call them. Talk to them on the phone for about 10 minutes. Lyra tells me how she had to have 4 people hold her down for her 3 jabs and 1 blood draw at the doctor. I ask her, "Wasn't it scary to have 4 people hold you down?" She said, "No, because when I saw those needles I wanted to be out of there." I asked, "How old do you think you'll be when you don't need to be held down to have a jab? six? seven?" She replied, "Probably eight." - Note to Lyra: Those pierced ears are going to have to wait.
3:30 - Back to bed. This time I will NOT turn on the light, even if I'm just laying there thinking over and over: I wish I could sleep, I'm so tired, I can't sleep, I wish I could sleep, I can't sleep.
4:28 - Allah Akbar, Allah Akbar. The two mosques start their call to prayer. I have missed those guys. They're so soothing in the morning.
4:56 - The prayers start.
5:06 - I tell myself, if by some miracle I have fallen asleep in the next 25 minutes before my alarm goes off, I'm just going to keep sleeping. I wonder if I'll fall asleep? Hmmm, am I asleep? Nope. Hmmmm, am I asleep? Nope.
5:30 - Alarm goes off. This is ridiculous - I should just turn that off and go to sleep. Problem is, it is now 8:30pm in Milwaukee and if I fall asleep now, I'll just want to stay asleep until 3 in the afternoon. That's just creating the same problem for tomorrow. Oh, but I want so much to SLEEP!
5:32 - I decide to get up and go to yoga. Maybe that will energize me.

Actually, the yoga was a very choice. Except for one thing. If you're feeling woozy, don't bend over backward.

The day stretches out before me like a long endurance test. I'm looking at things, but not seeing them. Hearing things, but not understanding. Saying things, but not even following my own train of thought. Walking, but not knowing where I'm going.

Tonight, I'm going to bed with a glass of whiskey - a tall one. Wish me luck.

Cow Meetings

The other day at dinner, I offered Lyra a bite of my tasty meatloaf.

Lyra: Is that cow?
Me: Yes [I used to answer that question with - No, it's meat. But that doesn't work any more.]
L: I don't eat cow.
M: Why not?
L: I like to save the cows so we can have milk.
M: Well, the cows that give milk aren't usually the same as the cows we eat.
L: Why not?
M: Only girl cows give milk and usually the cows we eat are boys.
L: Nuh-uh. Boy cows give milk, too.
M: No, just girl cows.
L: Nuh-uh. What if the mama cow is gone, the baba needs to feed the baby cow.
M: Well, the mama cow is never gone. It's always the mama that feeds the baby. Only mama cows have the udders to hold the milk.
L: Nuh-uh, baba cows have milk. What if the mama cow needs to go to a meeting and talk to other cows? The baba needs to feed the baby.
M: [Imaging the cow meeting] Well, mama cows don't really go to meetings they are always taking care of the baby.
L: What if the farmer takes the mama cow's milk? Then the baby wouldn't have anything to eat? Who would feed the baby then?
M: The farmer knows which mama cows have babies and he doesn't take their milk. He leaves it for the baby to eat.

It ended there, but she's still not convinced.

A Day for Needles

Needle #1 and 2
Much to my disappointment, my dentist discovered a cavity at my last check up. I decided to take care of it while still here in the US. I like my Polish dentist, Jadwiga Krol. She's good. Plus, I like that I know someone named Jadwiga.

Laying in the chair, I was a bit nervous. She first applied the topical anaesthetic before Needle #1 emerged. Tell me, why do dentists have to have these stainless steel syringes that look like they just came out of Dr. Frankensteins lab? Because really, this does nothing but send my blood pressure to the ceiling. A quick pinch - and it's really not so bad. Jadwiga's nice enough to give me a quick jolt of novacaine and let the numbness settle in before really giving me the full dose with Needle #2.

After several spine tingling minutes of that drill-from-hell sound that only a dental drill can produce, I had a nice neat hole in my tooth. This is one moment when it would pay to be deaf. I try to relax and let the sound not bother me, but I can't. I knew in high school I'd have to cross Dental School off the list of possible school options. I could never stand that sound.

She proceeded to attach some stainless steel screw-clamp thingy to my tooth and shoved a couple other things around my tooth that I could tell would really hurt if I wasn't numbed. I've never seen such a contraption bolted to my teeth. More Dr. Frankenstein lab stuff - hello dentists of the world - you could do yourselves a favor by laying off these gizmos. I'm thinking it must be because I got a white enamel filling rather than silver. I kept trying to catch a glimpse of all that was going on in Jadwiga's glasses (I love a dentist that wears glasses). But she had these cool jeweler-like magnifying lenses (you know the ones that they look through to tell you if there are any flaws in your diamond) that were attached to her glasses and kept getting in the way of my seeing what was going on. Probably for the best.

Needles #3, 4, 5 . . . . to infinity
And then I went to get my tatoo. The new tatoo artist in town has had an influx of customers from all the moms in Bay View. I think I was mom-customer number 5 (or something like that). Oddly enough - of all our friends in Bay View - the moms have tatoos and the dads don't (except for one dad who has a few). How weird is that? I told you we have the coolest friends.

I have had a design in mind for years - but I needed to bring something with me from Dubai. When packing 3 weeks ago, getting a tatoo wasn't on my list of things to do. So, I didn't have the design with me. Instead, I got an Ohm** (see right) tatooed on the back of my neck, near my hair-line. I'll have a photo made and post it here soon.

Tatoo-dude, Julio, was worried that it would be too small (it's less than 1"x1"). He said, "People are going to have to get real close to see what it is." I think we come at this tatoo thing from two totally different perspectives. He's got his arms and legs (and maybe his body) covered with tatoos. He's made a statement to the world using his body that you can see coming down the street. My statement is a bit more understated, more private - it's a statement for me not for the world. I don't care if someone mistakes my tatoo for a weird birth mark or has to squint and says, "What is that?"

After my trip to the dentist, I was a bit twitchy about the needle part. My memory of the last tatoo was faint and I couldn't remember how much it really was going to hurt. When Julio touched my neck (with his hands) to start the tatoo, I nearly jumped out of my skin. But as with most things, the anticipation is worse than the actual experience. I timed him - 4 minutes of tatooing was his estimate. He was right.

I'll take needles #3, 4, 5 to infinity a hundred times over needles #1 and 2. Not so much because of the needles, but tatoo needles are much less painful than dentist needles. It's the freakin' drill - I hate it. Lyra would tell me, "That's not a nice word. You shouldn't say 'hate'". I have tried explaining that inanimate ojects cannot have their feelings hurt. But she still wouldn't let me off. So, perhaps I should say something else like: "I loathe it or I despise it or I abhor it or I detest it" - there. I think those words aren't in her vocabulary, yet.

**Ohm, besides being the measure of electrical resistance between two points of a conductor, is the symbol for one of the chakras (energy centers) in Yoga - the Ajna chakra. The Ajna chakra is the "3rd eye". In Yoga, the chakra represents the unification of duality in the body; the meeting of consiousness and unconsiousness, sun and moon, creative and logical, hot and cold, left and right, etc. If I wanted to be technically correct, I should have had Ohm tatooed onto my forhead between my eyebrows. Call me a yoga-rebel.